Here's another video from Maya Road this time showing us how to make those cute little flowers using their pleated satin trim. We stock all six colors and I love the way they look with a bit of bling in the center. They are quick and easy to make and add that finishing touch to any project.
Here's the video:
Encourage one another,
I thought some of you might enjoy the short informative video I received from supplier Maya Road. We stock these metal zippers in every color. They make such fun embellishments and are super simple to make.
These would make a great project to have on hand for when the grandchildren come visiting this summer.
Zipper flowers.
The kids will think they are way cool and trendy.
With a little luck they just might think we are cool and trendy too.
Now that's definitely cool!
Encourage one another,
Download Tutorial Tuesday #33 Pocket Pillow
Here's a fun, unique way to display special memorabilia. A cute idea for babies birth announcements, wedding invitations, vacations or family photos and mementos. Although the ones I'm showing here have a vintage look, I think they would be equally as cute in bright funky colors and fabrics.
The pockets were pintucked and embellished with antique pearl buttons, old lace and emphemera.
I love how the pintucking adds interest, texture and gives the buttons a bit of a frame and keeps them from floating.
Here's how I made the pintucked pockets:
If you haven't tried pintucking it's like magic. All you need is a pintuck foot
and a twin needle.
Both the feet and the needles come in multiple sizes. You will select the appropriate foot and needle for the weight of the fabric that you are stitching on.
Most people don't realize that all machines can take a twin needle. The needle shank is like a regular needle, it just has two needles attached to that red plastic part. Often as I'm demonstrating sewing machines the prospective buyer asks if this machine will sew with twin needles and I always reply, "Absolutely. This machine is very special, it can sew with twin needles as well as triple needles!" hehe
You'll need two spools of thread but a filled bobbin can be used if you don't have two spools of the same color thread.
Thread your machine just like normal except lay one thread to the right of the tension disk and one to the left. You can see the silver tension disk in the photo below.
It's hard to see the two needles below but you will thread each one. The pintuck foot and your machine will do the rest. I have marked my first stitching line with a water wash out pencil. Just follow the line with the center line that is on the foot. (arrow) The needle will stitch on both sides of the line.
The second row of stitching just follows the first. That amazing little foot makes the magic as it rides along the first row like a railroad track. Bernina makes four pintuck feet as I'm sure most companies do. Select the foot that best matches the type of fabric that you are sewing on. My foot #32 has seven tracks and you can skip tracks to make your pintucks further apart if you'd like.
Make as many rows as you want (I did five here). This is the right side of my pintucked pocket
and here's what the pocket fabric looks like on the back. The bobbin thread connects both top threads as it sews and causes these wonderful little raised stitches. Magic. Pure magic.
Do the pintucking before you cut out your pocket pieces since the pintucking causes the fabric to shrink some. You can make the pocket any size but mine finish about 8" across by 7" high. You will want to cut the outside of the pocket 81/2" wide by 71/2" high. The lining is cut larger - 81/2" wide by 101/2" high.
Make an inch and a half ruffle to fit the width of the pocket front and attach.
With right sides together sew the lining to the pocket front. Sew on top of the stitches that you attached the ruffle with.
Press the lining so that it laps up and around, creating a cuff of fabric at the top of the ruffle. Match the bottom of the lining to the bottom of the pocket front and sew - right sides together.
Leave an opening for turning. Clip corners. Turn. Use a point turner to poke out corners and press.
Pin pocket to pillow front. I like to line my pillow front with a layer of thin Thermolam. My pillow top measures roughly 161/2" square.
The pocket will be centered on the pillow top about 2 1/2" from the bottom. By placing the pocket low on the pillow front it will leave room for the memorabilia to stick out of the top of the pocket.
Using your edge stitch foot, top stitch the pocket in place.
You've seen this foot here before. My life just wouldn't be the same without it.
That blade just follows along the edge of the pocket with the needle position to the left. All you have to do is watch the blade and your needle will be right where it should be.
Attach the ruffle and finish the back. Once the pillow is stuffed you can fill the pocket with goodies. You can stitch or glue everything in place or just leave them loose.
I think a smaller pocket would be adorable on a Christmas stocking with an old photo with Santa and an ornament coming out .
Use your imagination. The possibilities are endless. Just use items you love for a personal reminder of special times.
If you live near Bakersfield, we have fabulous pillow finishing classes and Annette is considering teaching this pocket pillow if there is enough interest so let us know if you'd like a class. Who knows, maybe Annette will let me come help with the goodie stuffing. I'd love that!
Encourage one another,
PS: Just got word from Bernina that they now are making the walking foot with an edge foot attachment. You will probably want to get on the wait list for this one because you know everyone is going to want one!
Here's a quick project to make for someone who loves to sew. With our easy to follow measuring instructions a custom fitting cozy can be easily sewn in an evening. This formula will work on anything you need to cover, sewing machines, sergers, toaster ovens - just about anything. Simply follow this easy to follow formula for a perfect fit every time. We have included the measurements for most BERNINA machines in our PDF instructions - we're thoughtful that way.
The full easy to print PDF instructions can be downloaded here.
Let's get started.
Measuring your machine:
Machine Width (MW): Be sure to include the fly wheel in this measurement.
Machine Height: (MH) Measure from table top to very highest point of the machine. You can also make a cover for a machine that lives in a cabinet. Just take your measurement from the top of the insert or machine bed to the top of the machine.
Machine Depth: (MD) Measure from the front to the back along the side of your machine.
Cut your cover, pockets and lining pieces using your measurements and the formula outlined in the PDF instructions here.
Sewing your Machine Cozy:
All seam allowances in this project are 1/2".
With right sides together, sew the pocket lining to the pocket outside using 1/2" seam allowance across the top of the pocket.
Press the seam allowance toward the outside pocket fabric
and line the bottom edges of the pocket and lining up so as to create about a one inch band of lining fabric at the top of the pocket. (This is why your pocket lining was cut longer than the outside pocket fabric - so it will wrap around, creating that contrasting band at the top).
Repeat with the other pocket.
Layer one pocket piece with one of the outside end pieces and machine baste. Repeat with second pocket.
On the wrong side of the two end pieces measure and mark the 1/2" seam allowance intersections at the top as shown below. Mark the center of the top side pieces with a pin.
Mark the center of the outside fabric (cover) at each long side with a pin.
Place the basted pocket /end piece (right sides together) with the long outside piece pinning the bottoms together.
Sew from the bottom to the first marked 1/2" intersection. (It is easiest to sew with the end/pocket pieces on top of the main front piece during this step).
With needle down, raise the foot and
clip the main cover fabric up to (but not into) the seam allowance.
Pivot, line up raw edges and continue to sew across the top of the end piece matching up the pins that mark the center points.
Continue sewing across the top of the end piece to the other 1/2" mark, pivot and clip. Sew to bottom of cover.
Repeat with the other end piece.
At this point your cover will be unlined and will look like this (only probably in different fabric). = )
Construct the lining the same way as the outside, but omit the pockets. Leave a six inch opening in one of the lining side seams to turn your project through later.
To finish, place the lining and outside pieces right sides together matching up the side seams and with the bottom raw edges together. Sew all the way around. Turn right side out through the opening in the lining. Press so the lining shows one inch on the outside of the cozy.
You can add a lightweight iron on interfacing for extra body to the outside fabric if desired.
Encourage one another,
Here's a fun gift tag that doubles as the gift and if you're anything like me you won't have to buy a single thing to make them. I've always thought there must be a good reason for me to keep all these bits and pieces of left over lace, ribbon and trim. Now I've found the perfect project.
You'll start with shipping tags. About twenty cents each at the office supply store.
You can also make your own tags with heavy stock and reinforcements.
Using one or more colors of rubber stamp ink, antique the tag as desired.
Add stickers, rubber stamps and rub ons to decorate the tag then wrap the tag with ribbon, lace and trim from your stash.
I like to add some scrapbook elements, jewelry or old buttons for added interest.
You can affix the ribbon on the back by sewing, gluing or adding a pin.
By wrapping the ribbon and trim around the tag several times you can use up to a yard of each trim. A nice amount if the recipient wants to use the trims later.
A fun way to give an inexpensive gift to someone who sews and appreciates lovely embellishments.
It's fun to coordinate the trims with the card and buttons.
And certainly is a lovely way to say Thank You, Merry Christmas or Happy Birthday!
The old sticker on this one was purchased at a Paris flea market and the antique rayon plaid ribbon was some I've had for years and never used. The tatted lace is very old as are the bundled mother of pearl buttons. All fun things that look so much better displayed together rather than stuck away in a closet or drawer.
I love that the tags can be displayed in my sewing room, guest room or even hung on a Christmas tree so I can enjoy my old sewing treasures everyday.
This is one of those larger tags that I cut myself. I wanted a larger surface to display the antique French sticker and beautiful handmade antique lace. The ribbons are new, but they all look great together.
I could probably make a hundred of these and never run out of ingredients. I'm excited to finally have found a use for the French stickers and some of the embellishments I've saved for all these years.
I think these would make great gifts for friends who sew or anytime you need quick inexpensive handmade cards or gifts. You certainly could use just enough ribbon and trim to wrap around the tag once, but several wraps around gives the person you're giving these too something to work with later.
Encourage one another,
You may recognise this big leafy design from a previous post. It's one I stenciled awhile back.
I've been wondering what would happen if I rubber stamped on fabric. So this weekend I gave it a try.
Using these basic fabric stamping instructions and ink that was approved for fabric,
I simply stamped over my stenciled design.
Even the wording was stamped! Cool huh? (I'm totally jazzed about this but then it doesn't really take much).
I'm amazed that the intricate design showed up on the course toweling. And although this particular design will never be washed, the stenciled paint and stamped ink are all colorfast and washable because I heat set them once everything was thoroughly dry.
I personally think stenciling and stamping can be a bit flat without some sort of embellishment so I used it as a background and added dimension with flowers, feathers and ribbon.
I, after all, am the self appointed Queen of Embellishment.
The official Lily Gilder.
The Grand Poobah of Googah.
It's an itch that I can't stop scratching. Trust me. I've tried.
Anyway...
Can you imagine the possibilities here people?
I'm think'n little patches on onesies...
Metal zippers by the yard here
and tee shirts...
and pillows.
I may have to call in sick so I can stay home and explore the possibilities.
Oh, the possibilities...
Encourage one another,
Today's tutorial comes from The Sewing Republic. If you go here you can download the free instructions for this handy little matt that holds babies essentials for a quick diaper change when you're out and about. The pocket holds a couple of diapers and a small box of wipes so everything is together.
Machine quilting adds some extra cushion and after trying both flannel and ThermoLam I decided the ThermoLam worked best and added some extra body . I added a wristlet (a key chain) so it could be easily carried when you have your hands full.
This one is lined with soft flannel.
I wanted to try using our laminated fabric which adds a bit of a waterproof barrier. I think they turned out pretty cute.
I just quilted the fabric in a grid before I cut it out
and lined it with chenille for extra absorbency.
This one has a laminate on one side and flannel on the other. Once the diapers and wipes are removed from the pocket you can choose which side to lay baby on, depending on how messy the diaper change. = )
I pretty much followed the instructions for these but I wanted to show you how I quilted the fabric before I cut everything out.
The instructions suggested using a walking foot which I did.
Notice that funny extra bar? That's such a cool tool that you stick through the walking foot. It's adjustable and after you mark your first line you just have that "foot" there on the left follow the first row of stitches and it eliminates the need to do any other markings.
See the line I'm stitching in the above photo isn't marked, I'm just watching the foot on the left and letting it follow my previously stitched line. Cool huh? This saves tons of time and you don't have to worry about removing all those marked lines.
These are quick and fun to make and would make such great baby gifts. I hope you'll try them and let me know if you have questions.
Encourage one another,
PS Many Bernina dealers are having a huge sale this weekend - our biggest sale of the year. We are offering up to 36 months of interest free financing and at Strawberry Patches all of our accessories are 20% off. So if you need a new machine, serger, software or walking foot for this project, this is the sale for you!
This summer we showed you how to stencil on fabric at Bernina Club and many of you asked me how to make the burlap ruffles we added to our pillows.
So here as promised is a quick tutorial on making the wrinkled burlap ruffles.
The ruffles on these pillows were cut 4 1/2" wide and I utilized the selvage along the edge of the burlap as the outside edge of the ruffle which eliminated the need to hem one side. (I'm lazy cleaver that way).
The idea for this technique came from this $200 pillow.
They used a 4" wide burlap trim to make the ruffle which I have no idea where to find. So I used our $6.00 a yard burlap and made my own.
Lowly burlap never looked so regal.
To begin, measure 4 1/2" from the selvage and pull one of the vertical threads. This is called finding the straight of grain.
See, as I pull the thread it makes a straight line all the way along the length of the burlap.
When the thread is completely removed
it creates a straight line that can be used as a cutting guide. This technique is especially useful when you want to fray the edges of something like this...
When you pull a thread first and then cut and frey the fabric your freyed edge will be wonderfully straight. (Just thought you should know).
Anyway...
The length of your ruffle strip will measure twice the circumference of your finished pillow.
Join the ends of the strip to form a continuous circle
and serge or overcast the seam to keep it from unraveling. Serge or overcast the long cut edge of the ruffle too. (This is one of those projects that you'll be glad you have a serger - if you do have a serger...if you don't have a serger, you know what to do (661) 835-1738 - FYI: Bernina sale October 16th!
Fold over the serged edge and hem.
Run a gathering stitch along the folded edge and gather to fit the finished size of your pillow.
Normally I'm a huge fan of rufflers but in this case the old fashioned way of gathering works best. Just run a long stitch along the hemmed edge and gently pull the thread to gather.
Once the ruffle is made to size, wet the ruffle and scrunch it with your hands and let it dry all wrinkly. That's the look we're going for here. This is one of those rare times when wrinkles are desirable. In fact if you want super wrinkly ruffles don't prewash your burlap before starting this project. The sizing in the burlap will cause the burlap to be very, very wrinkled. Prewashed burlap is softer but not quite so wrinkled. Call it a trade off.
Once dry, top stitch the ruffle to your finished pillow sewing right on top of your gathering stitch. It's easy to ease in extra fullness or pull out a little fullness if need be at this point so the ruffle fits the pillow perfectly.
The back will look like this
You just line up the edge of the ruffle with your finished, unstuffed pillow and sew through all thicknesses. (Don't stress if it isn't perfect on the back. This professionally made pillow isn't perfect on the back and I bought it anyway. It just makes me feel better knowing that even expensive, professionally made pillows aren't always perfectly perfect)! (Call me insecure).
For this style of pillow you will want to use a zipper
or lap back
and a pillow form because if you don't it will be super hard to stuff the pillow after the ruffle is attached. Actually, it will be impossible to stuff the pillow after it's attached.
So there you have it.
Wrinkled burlap ruffles.
It's a good thing.
Encourage one another,
We have these fun bags in the store and constantly get requests for the pattern and instructions.
So to get you guys off my back accommodate our wonderful customers, here's how you make them.
Once you get the hang of these they can be made in any size.
Make small ones for party goody bags
or for trick or treaters.
Tall, narrow ones make great wine bags. Sorry that this one isn't made from wine fabric but it was a mistake.
I had absolutely no intention of making a wine bag but I miscut and accidentally ended up with one. Shows you where my mind was! Love that the opening shows the label though. Humm...giving out bottles of wine to the trick or treaters. Now there's a concept! A nice bottle of cider would be fun instead of wine with mulling spices attached.
Large bags are the perfect size for giving caramel corn and Chex Mix.
The Medium size is great for hot chocolate mix.
They work for any occasion or holiday. One thing to consider when selecting your sizes is that they hold a lot. It can be expensive to fill the larger size so don't make them too big unless you're filling them with caramel corn, Chex Mix or something that's fluffy and relatively inexpensive.
For added interest I've added some scrapbook elements.
I love the detail and touch of whimsy they add.
You can even write on the vinyl windows with these.
And if your writing is less than stellar simply print out your message from your computer in your choice of fonts and trace.
One more idea before we start. If you don't want to divulge the contents of the bag, why not affix (I always feel like Martha when I say affix) a photograph behind the window? The bags could be used for wedding favors, gifts from a newly married couple, new baby or a nice way to present your families Christmas photo.
It would be fun to write your families name or a short message on the vinyl. (Like: Help me! I'm married to a lunatic).
Enough talk. Lets get to work.
(All instructions are for the large bag. Please refer to the attached PDF for measurements for the other sizes). I've included some good recipes too.
Cut main fabric for outside of bag 12 1/2" tall x 18" wide.
Cut lining fabric for bag 14" tall x 18" wide.
If using optional ric rac for top binding you will need 18" (one half yard)
1/2 yard ribbon for tie
5 1/2" square of Steam a Seam 2
5" square of vinyl
1/3 yard of 1/4" to 3/8" wide ric rac for around opening - optional
optional embellishments
Cut lining and outside pieces.
If using ric rac sew it across the top of your outside fabric. To do this line the edge of the ric rac up with the edge of your fabric and sew down the middle of the ric rac.
Lay right sides together (lining and outside fabrics) and sew again this time on top of the first row of stitches.
Press your seam toward the lining.
If you are not using ric rac put right sides together and sew 1/4" along the top joining the two pieces.
Press toward the lining.
Turn your fabric right sides out (wrong sides together) and align the lining and outside fabric at the bottom and sides. Because the lining fabric was cut bigger than the outside fabric it will wrap around to the front creating a band across the top.
Press. (I've lifted a corner here so you can see the lining fabric there behind the outside fabric.
Fold that puppy in half with the right side of the lining fabric facing you (on the outside) and the raw edge to the left, the fold to the right.
Measure and mark a 5/8" seam allowance along the left raw edge.
Measure up from the bottom 3" and mark a line.
Using a glass about 3 1/2" across, center a circle between the marked seam allowance and the folded edge. At this point the circle will not be in the middle of the bag.
I have used a Sharpie for this so you can see the markings, but you will want to use a pencil or wash out marker.
Remove one side of the paper on the 5 1/2" square of Steam a seam 2 and with your hands press it behind the marked circle with the sticky side to the wrong side of the lining fabric.
Iron to adhere. Peel paper off the other side of the Steam a seam 2 and press with your hands only. Do not iron yet.
Cut the circle out. The Steam a seam 2 will hold the lining and outside fabrics together while you cut your circle but will let you separate them later to insert the vinyl. Cool huh?
Now pull the two pieces carefully apart (you can do this because you have only finger pressed the second side of the Steam a seam 2 to the outside fabric). Center your vinyl over the opening. Notice I cut the vinyl into a circle that is roughly an inch bigger than the opening.
Lay the lining back over the opening and carefully iron the two layers together being careful not to touch your hot iron directly on the vinyl.
The Steam a seam 2 will hold the vinyl to the two pieces of fabric but because the vinyl is not attached to the outside fabric (only the lining) you can insert a piece of ric rac as you sew. This is optional but so cute!
Use a blanket stitch if you have one or a zig zag stitch to attach the ric rac and vinyl to the two pieces of fabric.
Trim everything all neat and tidy.
We're going to finish our bag with a french seam. Remember when we did that here?
WRONG sides together, down the side and across the bottom using a scant 1/4" seam.
If you want to sew in your ribbon tie, you'll want to lay it in your seam like so:
Trust me this is the right way with the ribbon sticking out of the seam. If there is writing on the ribbon or if it has a right side and wrong side you'll want right sides together.
Clip the two bottom corners.
Turn bag wrong side out. Press. Stitch again this time with a 1/2" seam allowance along the long seam and across the bottom.
You can see the ribbon loop sticking out there in the lower photo. Just pull the ends of the ribbon towards the center of the bag to keep them out of the way of this last seam.
We're almost done. Promise.
Time for what we in the biz call dog eared corners.
This is what lets the bag stand up.
Fold the corners so they look like this
and sew across 1" to 1 1/2" from the tip, depending on the size of your bag. The deeper into the bag you sew the bigger your bottom. The more caramel corn and hot chocolate you consume, the bigger your bottom.
But I digress.
This is why they call it dog ears. Looks like a Doberman with cropped ears that's about to attack. Nice doggie.
Here's a look at that big bottom.
How did THAT get in here?
I meant this bottom...
And here's the finished bag all ready to load with goodies.
And speaking of getting loaded...I don't know about you but after making it though this post I think I'm ready for this.
I'm exhausted!
Encourage one another,
Encourage one another,
I am so excited about the stretch velvet I found on my recent shopping trip. The organza ruffles on each side of the velvet makes it so feminine and I love that it doesn't need to be covered. One seam and you have an instant headband ready to clip a flower to.
For those of you who don't have a little one around to get head measurements here is a chart to help you with sizes.
Preemie 12"
Newborn 13"
Baby 14" to 15"
Toddler 16" to 17"
The finished headband should measure 1" smaller than the child's head measurement.
Cut elastic to determined size. Overlap ends by 1/2" and zig zag to secure. Trim. (1)
Cut matching 3/8" wide grosgrain ribbon twice the width of the elastic plus 1/2". Fold over one end of ribbon to finish edge and hot glue.(1)
Glue ribbon to back only of elastic (2) covering the stitches (3).
The front of the finished band will have a loop for attaching the clip (4).
Here are all the colors the elastic comes in. You can order it here.
To cover the hair clip:
Apply about one inch of hot glue to 3/8" grosgrain ribbon and lay the top underneath side of the hair clip in the glue.
Put more hot glue on the top of the clip and wrap ribbon around the tip and across the top covering the top of the clip.
Cut ribbon off 1/4" beyond end of clip.
Glue (I turned the clip over in the above photo)
and wrap. Notice that the ribbon wraps around the top half of the clip only.
The ribbon helps give the glued flower something to adhere to and helps keep the clip from slipping out of baby fine hair.
Glue flower to the ribbon side of the clip. The flat side of the clip will be against your babies head.
Put some glue on the back of your flower
and affix the clip to the back of the flower.
Now you can clip the flower to a headband, hat or use it simply as a hair clip.
It's so easy to reattach the flower to different hats or headbands.
Presto...
chango.
Same band different flower.
A fall hat is quickly changed into a Christmas hat by just changing the embellishment.
Encourage one another,
PS: All the flowers, hats, clips, elastic and appliques shown in this post are available at Strawberry Patches although not everything is on our website. Call or email us if you see something you'd like that is not on line.
